02 September 2006

Busking in Red Square

The train pulled into Moscow, and we unloaded all our things and stood for a moment on the platform, wondering why everything was standing still. Just like getting off a boat or a horse after a long ride, our internal equilibrium was off, expecting the rick-a-rock of the train motion. We had eight hours in Moscow, and needed to find our next train station (opposite end of the city) and the ticket that would get us on the train (third corner). We mis-read the Lonely Planet guidebook, and first went to one station, (fourth corner) only to find that the train to Kiev leaves from the Kievsky station. (Whoda thought?)

Can we say right now that if you are in a wheelchair, perhaps Moscow is not the right city for you? Everyplace we went, luggage in tow, if there was a choice of level or stairs, we had to take the stairs. Eventually, the way I found the left luggage depot in the Kievsky station was by going down all the stairs I could find, and voila!

Now at last we were Caucasians among Caucasians, but not speaking Russian, we were still pinned as foreigners instantly by the left luggage guy. He took one look at our bags, which we stored in Mongolia for $8 for 2 days, and said that for the remaining 6 hours he would charge $36. This is including an ‘insurance’ fee that was a percentage of the value of the contents of our baggage. Insurance against what? We’re leaving the things in a guarded left luggage room. Hmm. Pocket lining, that was! We took the backpacks, and resolved ourselves to go up and down stairs throughout Moscow bearing our books and computer. It was not a great decision, but when you’re feeling ripped off, you don’t always think clearly.

Two more hours, and we at last found the travel agency who had our ticket. Then we set off to find dinner somewhere. We asked McKinley to do her magic, and she found us a restaurant that was buffet, affordable, and had fantastic food that we could point to and order. As a reward, we took her to Red Square, glowing in the evening light. We saw the stunning sights, then sat down while McKinley brought out her cello and busked to an appreciative audience. She earned hundreds of Rubles, enough to buy herself two coveted Matreska dolls.

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